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buoy

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Everything posted by buoy

  1. Here it is. It's very simple to cross reference and corroborate what this video says both with your own experience. An important aspect is joint preservation. Think about the years ahead and how your joints will wear over time. I thought about my own father having hip replacement at age 82 - now he's 85 and the last 3 years haven't been fun for him at all. I thought about Ronnie Coleman and how even after $2m of surgery he now can't walk. Of course I'm cherry picking and I'm building a case to justify training with light weights - however there have been periods where I have accidentally done this type of training and it had been very successful. I also did a lot of german muscle training for a while which, in fact, mimicks the lighter weight scenario talked about in this video. Knowledge is the key. They provide the tools for you to create something for yourself. This video contains some gold. I hope you all profit from it. Cheers, Buoy
  2. Hi all, I started trying out volume trainig for about a month now and I must say it is amazing! I thought all my easy gains had gone years ago but this just felt like lifting weights from the beginning again - huge pumps, a huge high afterwards, doms a day later and the day after that and a spike in appetite. It really took me by surprise. I'm wondering if anyone else has tried this sort of training and if it worked for them? All I have been going on is an article on bodybuilding.com in regards to german volume training - basically doing 10 sets of 10 reps at 60% max with no more than 90 seconds rest in-between sets. I must say, I could barely get to set 6 or 7 before being unable to hit 10 reps on some of the exercises I tried - eg: bench press. Results were incredible though. Cheers, buoy
  3. There has been a lot of talk about the US striking Syria... and then the whole fiasco about Russia bringing in their "Carrier Killer" fleet to deal with the US Carrier group(s) in the vicinity. Then many forums around the world erupted with who would win - Carrier vs Carrier Killing Frigates and / or Carrier Group vs Submarines? What gives? ... and then there was this video that really set the tone... So I just thought after reading a whole bunch of complete and utter nonsense on other forums, why not just take this all the way. You know you want to: UNITED STATES VERSUS THE REST OF THE WORLD - GLOBAL CONFLICT - INVADE THE USA / USA INVADES THE WORLD. WHO WINS? ========================================================================================================== The Rules: No Nukes. Why? Because if nukes are used, everyone loses... and we can't have that... and we really want a winner here. What to take into account: MILITARY- AIR/SEA and LAND firepower. How advanced? How numerous? How spread out? How much can they defend? How effective are they against their counterparts. What submarines you using? What sattelites / surveillance / terrorist groups you running with? HISTORY- You remember World War 2 right? How many countries vs how many countries? Who jumped in? Does that gleam anything in todays conflict? RESOURCES- You got planes? Check. You got fuel to put in those planes? You got access to oil fields? Can your enemies torch those oil fields making it hard to get to the oil? Can you feed your citizens? Where are your factories? Are they off-shore? Do you have any that can build shit? POPULATION- How many fighting ready people do you have? How many people are too old / too young / too skinny / to incredibly obese to fight? BIOLOGICAL WARFARE: I know nukes are ruled out but not too sure on this one. Include it if you have a seethingly brilliant idea. ELECTRONIC WARFARE - Who is hacking who? Internet attacks - is that even a "thing" at this stage? Do we use this to gather intelligence about the enemy? etc And finally, STRATEGY. Exactly what series of events unfold. Who attacks what? What gets attacked? What strategic points of interest need to be maintained. OH NO SOMEBODY launched an ICBM. But we said no nukes right? That's right.... no nukes... but those ICBMs can use conventional warheads right?
  4. Hi all, Recently I've watched a few BBC Documentaries re the moon. Previous to this I really didn't think going to the moon was worth it - going to mars was the next logical goal. Perhaps the moon can allow us to "practice" - or at least that was my line of thought. The documentary I watched (link here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMAC0ZZxZC4#t=50m -- watch from 50 minutes onwards) talks about using the moon for practical applications such as energy collection and using the raw materials on the planet as a manufacturing base for things like rocket fuel, water and "fibreglass". I also had the idea that to shield occupants for long space journeys, encasing the craft in many dozens of feet of water betwen the exterior and interior hulls would work quite well - except for the fact that it would take an enormous amount of fuel to get that water up there from earth. Since the moon has 400 billion liters of water in the poles (apparently, refer to youtube link above) one use for that water, along with the ability to produce fiberglass from fabrication plants close by would be to create hulls filled with water and get these giant monolith tankers into space. Not only would they provide shielding from high energy rays but other tankers could be used in a life support role etc. So, to recap. The moon appears to be a potential boon for doing everything else since we can most likley do the following: - Manufacture more rocket fuel - Manufacture more structural components - Huge water reservoir - Low gravity leads to more cost-effective launching of these huge reserves of water and other spacecraft - Communications on the far side of the moon have less noise from earth (already the James Webb telescope is going to be positioned there for this very reason) - No atmosphere allows solar array collection at almost 1.5x the energy conversion as that of earth. Constructing a lunar-based array of solar satellites "... would be cheaper than Earth-based materials for a system of as few as thirty Solar Power Satellites of 10GW capacity each." (source: "Lunar Resources Utilization for Space Construction" by General Dynamics' Convair Division, under NASA contract NAS9-15560 http://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntr..._1983077470.pdf )
  5. You might be right. It would be exceedingly expensive to send work crews up there to manually construct base after base. I'd say perhaps the first one will be done the old fashioned way with manual labour. But, once they have established a very small human base, those humans would be there not as direct workers but technicians to fix the machines that perform the construction. That way you could have a myriad of machinery and a small skeleton crew fixing issues as they arise. Personally if they ever construct a kilometer wide dome and fill it with a decent amount of air, I'd like to go rallying with a go-cart. Can you imagine the air on the bumps you'd get with that much gravity?
  6. Thought I'd resurrect this thread since the Chinese lander 3 and rover put tracks on the lunar surface this month and it appears that China's new stance is to put a base on the moon by the end of the decade. A permanent base. Now the EU and the US are rethinking their plans to go back to the moon as I'm not sure they would be very happy giving China "full reign" over lunar resources. The moon has a land area equal approximately to the land area of all of Africa and Australia. It is geologically stable. Moon rock is comprised of 43% oxygen, held in a stable form as various types of oxides (Magnesium oxide etc) which could be converted into oxygen via sublimation (heat it with a fresnel lens - magnifying glass) or electrolosys. It leaves behind a glass-like residue that can be used as a building material.
  7. BRAND NEW HEAVIES AS AT DECEMBER 2012: The Hiapad Hi-802 with i.MX6 Q-U-A-D C-O-R-E processor just about 10% slower than a Nexus 7 running Tegra 3........ is now available for cheap as a Mini-PC Stick in various forms: http://liliputing.com/2012/10/hiapad-hi-802-pc-on-a-stick-with-freescale-quad-core-cpu.html Here are some benchies http://liliputing.com/2012/10/freescale-i-mx6-quad-core-cpu-benchmarks-ampe-a10-tablet.html the press release http://www.netbookne...urce=feedburner the video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bxohWS0vpg the link to buy the f**kers http://www.aliexpres...l&af=cj_3640101 (or if you prefer eBay with other accessories like QWERTY remote, etc...) http://www.ebay.com....=MK802&_sacat=0 Here's the link to the similarly priced UG802 (but its DUAL CORE Cortex A9 ffs!) http://www.ebay.com....6#ht_7150wt_988 I'm buying a few... O_o - unfortunately I already bought an MK802 II............ and then 20 minutes later I stumble on the UG802. BAH!!! Aah well... oh and... YOU'RE WELCOME! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rkR6_7cw4p8
  8. Hi all - just wanted to say that I just got my CX 919 and it is absolutely amazing. However I'm a bit pissed.......... I just had a look on eBay and... I kid you not.
  9. Not sure sr180... but I have an update for the masses: Forget all the other Android Mini PC versions out there. If you are after something for xmas, it's pretty much too late to buy anything now since the postal service is overloaded as it is and you'd be lucky to get it by the end of the year. BUT... if you are after an Android Mini PC for some new year present or gift idea either to yourself or to someone else and you want the best -absolute- best of the best, there is one model that stands head and shoulders above the rest: The Tronsmart CX-919 Why is it the best? 1. It has 2 Gigabytes of RAM. If you don't know why this is good... just trust people in the know. This is good. 2. It runs the top of the line Mali-400 GPU at the highest clocked settings. This is good also. 3. The CPU is a Rockchip RK3188 1.65GHz Quad-Core ARM Cortex A9. Undoubtedly, one of the best (if not the best) processor that can be currently found on a Android TV dongle. 4. It supports DLNA (Airplay), XBMC, lots of audio, image and video formats (MKV, AVI, RMVB…) and, of course, it can decode Full-HD 1080p videos wonderfully. Users who watch HD videos often will probably run out of its 8GB internal storage though. Fortunately, memory is expandable via Micro SD (up to 32GB). It scores high in connectivity thanks to Bluetooth 4.0support, WiFi 802.11 b/g/n, HDMI port, USB (OTG) and Mini USB (power supply) 5. It runs Jelly Bean 4.2.2. 6. It's NO MORE expensive than all the rest. It can be had for $80 bucks. So... why by a crappier p.o.s when you can just buy that thing?! PS: Before buying MAKE SURE it is the 2GB model. There are quite a few sporting only 1GB of RAM.
  10. TMZ has reported that Paul Walker's childhood best friend was the first to arrive on the scene. According to his story, Walker and the driver Roger Rodas appeared to be dead in the vehicle. TMZ writes: Apparently, when the proper officials arrived on the scene, things got even worse. All I can say is that our hearts go out to everyone who Walker touched in his life and to those who witnessed the horrific crash. Read more at: http://www.heavy.com/entertainment/2013/12/paul-walker-died-on-impact-burned-alive/
  11. Google Maps of coordinates if you are interested. It happened almost in front of the car shop he was associated with. http://goo.gl/maps/95SQJ
  12. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PM-X6WF0S40 and finally, THE most memorable scene in all of the Fast and the Furious movies.
  13. My Plan To Fix Australia

    Government was originally designed to serve the people but just like everything else out there a lot of people are big businessman cutting deals here and there. It's no big secret but perhaps the incumbent nature of business and government and government contracts means that the companies that are "used" to doing business with government do a lot to keep those business lines "open". The biggest example of this in my line of work (but in the united states, not here) is healthcare.gov. Almost 100 million dollars to build. Almost 500 million in lost service to the American people. The whole site was done using existing contractors at sorely inflated prices and lax deliverables. Also, not the best programming houses were employed simply because it was the government and you had to have certain security level to access people's "sensitive" information - which was red tape to keep the existing incumbent developers without external competition. The result? Botched launch. A total of 6 (yes, SIX) people were able to register on healthcare.gov in the first day of launch. You can google it to get the full story. The point of mentioning this is.... yes there are a lot of things done in this country that's inefficient and it's grossly mismanaged. One of my friends works for State Rail. The amount of stuff he gets paid to do for... pretty much just sitting in a room cos he's "on standby" is ridiculous. Another few people I know are in the hospital system. It's just amazing how resources get thrown around. Finally, if you look at NASA (yes, the american space agency) and see the 60-80 million dollar cost of sending up something into space.... coupled with the (now defunct) Space Shuttle program of the last few decades which was initially described as a "reusable" reentry vehicle.... ended up being a 1.6 billion dollar a year waste of f**king time. SpaceX (privately funded company by Elon Musk to cover ISS duties) is making rockets to replace those of NASA..... expenses per flight? Less than 2 million - $200k worth of fuel. COMPARED WITH 80 MILLION. Are you f**king kidding me? Governemnt is NEVER a good way to manage resources. Here's another one: Telstra. What you need is the private sector and you need competition, competition, competition. Check out the United Kingdom's cellular and broadband network. You get 500 gigs ADSL for 8 pounds per month.
  14. Hi all, -INTRODUCTION- (only read if interested... otherwise proceed to topic question below) We had at our new place a reasonably sized air conditioning unit installed. The unit is great, it cools, it's reverse cycle so it heats in the winter etc. We have our 1 year old son so during the recent winter months we were quite liberal with using the air-con as a heater, heating the lounge room so he could play etc. Then came the electric bill..... and boy oh boy. Just a shade under $2000...... and the usage was off the chart, especially during the peak times. I really thought we could bring the bill down so I made several adjustments to the house - and for this summer coming up I did a bit of stuff to the house: energy saver blubs, external shades on the windows getting lots of sun..... am selling our huge plasma for a much cheaper LED TV very soon. Then I started to tackle the air-conditioner problem. Looking at my energy bill, our provider gives us Peak, Off-Peak and Shoulder. So as to keep everything streamlined for discussion let's just concentrate on peak and off-peak: Peak usage costs around 50c per kwh. This is from 2pm - 10pm. Off-Peak usage costs around 11c per kwh. This is from 10pm - 7am. (Shoulder is around 20c and occurs at other times and even some times in-between but lets keep it simple for arguments sake). -TOPIC QUESTION- When you use the air-con, it uses a lot of electricity from the moment you turn it on. I want to "shift" the cooling work to the off-peak portion of the day (between 10pm and 7am) since there is a significant difference in price - peak is roughly 5 times more expensive than off-peak. So... whatever inefficiencies due to reduced operating efficiency, containment or anything else... it must not exceed 5 times the consumption of our air-con... otherwise it's not worth doing. But anything less than 5x would see some benefit. In other words, if it takes X amount of energy to use our air-con..... as long as the "shifted cooling" solution takes less than 5X, even though we are using more electricity, we are saving money due to the way the electricity bill is calculated. SCHEME: Chest freezer to freeze a liquid eg water + anti-freeze... then run some sort of piping to an air/water heat transfer radiator - since chest freezers have hose outlets at the bottom for drainage ---- and exchange the heat with a few fans, thus cooling the house. Run the freezer only during off-peak hours (10pm - 7am). Rely on the freezers insulation to preserve the work done to cool the liquid during the day until it is needed by us - most likely between the hours of 3pm until around 10pm - after which time we would either be asleep or the actual air-con could be used at off-peak rates, negating the need to use this system entirely. CAVEATS: The freezer is not as efficient as an air-conditioner: This is true... but the big question is: How MUCH less efficient. Even if the air-con is in the range of 50% more efficient at generating cool air, we have a 500% ceiling with which to play around with due to peak vs off-peak. The freezer will heat up the room it is in. This is correct... but we will have the freezer in the laundry and with the windows open... so it will be exchanging heat with the ambient air very slowly. The freezer will not have enough cooling to last the whole night. Perhaps not even until 10pm. While true, it still means that it is cutting into the cost of running an air-conditioning unit during peak - thus it is still reducing our electricity bill. INTERNET RESEARCH: I've seen a few videos on youtube which exploit this system - some quite DIY like this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxSLbpAwibg and then there is this thread on another forum: http://cr4.globalspe...Air-Conditioner One thing that constantly appears in those threads is that the commenters hammer the point home that an air-con is much more efficient than a freezer and they talk about putting it outside, that you are wasting money, that your bill would be more. Ok. Apparently those thread posters have a point, and it still holds to this day and it is this: The freezer solution is ONLY applicable to people who have an energy Peak and Off-Peak zone in their billing system. If you do not have a peak and off peak rate then just use your air-con because there are no savings with this method. You'd actually use more power and pay more money. Has anyone done this before? Do you know of any off-the-shelf off-peak air conditioner units for residential households you could buy? I notice that there are none on e-bay and there seem to only be a few systems like this in the world for some strange reason one of which is called the "Ice Bear" and I'm not about to spend a massive amount of money. I'm looking to hopefully drop my powerbill by some moderate percentage. If I achieve say a moderate 30% reduction then... my bill would go from $2000 to $1400 so the cost must justify the means.
  15. I think that any cooling that escapes is fine because we want it to do that anyway. Give it a go!
  16. yes I got condensation on the tubing and thermal wrap just buys you time... until you get condensation over that. It was for that reason that I thought a top-mounted radiator over the esky would solve all those problems. The water would just accumulate inside the top compartment of the esky and fall down to where the ice cold water is. Eventually you'll have an excess of water but by that time you would have exhausted the cooling capacity of the thing anyway.
  17. Hey... sorry had some work deadlines. Thought this thread died. Well I used a bilge pump from an aquarium shop. I still have it setup - esky, radiator and hoses. The past few weeks have been quite cold and rainy so I wasn't even inclined to look at that stuff - it just sat quietly in the corner of the room. When it gets hot again I'll take it out and do more work on it. It's good for knocking off a good few hours of air-con use during peak the way it is now.
  18. That looks brilliant but there is 1 thing which we'd have to somehow "get around" and that is that submerged cooler will get condensation inside itself and start to fill up with water. As for the cold air over the ice-cold water bit - I've got a feeling that this will introduce more moisture into the air... so everything around will start to feel damp after a while. Using just the submerged cooler actually extracts water out of the air (a dehimidifier if you will) which is why we get condensation in the first place. Perhaps you could have a third pipe out of the submerged cooler that extracts the moisture every now and then... wouldn't have to be very large... maybe once every 10 minutes it turns on for a few seconds and siphons the water out and into the esky.
  19. I am not too fond of the swamp cooler. I had an evap cooler a long time ago and it hardly worked and rusted my PC and chair. hinges. Here in the inner west of Sydney the humidity sometimes doesn't leave much room for evaps to work very well. I've pushed on with the freezer and since tonight was (well "is" still outisde) especially hot, I'm in the room with a cool breeze blowing around and have been since 10pm, the thing still going strong. All I did was buy 2 bags of 5kg Ice from the 7/11 at $4 a bag (so $8 total... of course it's just for testing. I'd have to provision for making ice at home) and a 25L Esky we had lying around. I had to put around another 5L of tap water to create a liquid base so I could submerge the water pump... then I just set it up on my desk and turned it on with the room fan behind it. Results were nothing short of spectacular. It cooled parts of the bed so well that it was cold cold COLD to touch. Condensation became an issue so I got a pan from the kitchen to stand the cpu cooler in. From these preliminary tests, even 10kg of ICE aka frozen water at 0 degrees celsius... which has approximately the equivalent cooling potential as 45L of liquid water at 0 degrees celsius, has cooled down a pretty hot room for at least 2 hours as of typing this message - it's now a little past midnight and it's still going strong - perhaps another hour or so. Of course, the cpu cooler is a "bottleneck" in that its only allowing the ice to cool the room at a lowish rate - nothing like full blast of an air-con. Localised cooling (as I mentioned with parts of the bed) is great. It did take a while to cool down the entire "ambient" feel of the room. It became noticeable when I left the room a few times and came back. That door opening and that whoosh of cold air, that kinda "signature" air-con blast was definitely there. I now realise that getting a 200L chest freezer would in fact be more than ample to cool down the room all night and even all day - but the main issue is that ice expands and if I pursue it I'm going to have to work out a way to freeze the water without busting the freezer itself. Perhaps a huge plastic stretchy container... but I'm more impressed with the esky conversion now. What I'll probably do is create a little lid for the esky and put the cpu cooler in there along with a fan. I'll also put an internal lid slightly lower than the lid with the cpu cooler and fan which will have some styrofoam insulation (perhaps... not sure) to keep the ice compartment separated. There will be 2 holes in this interior lid for the 2 hoses and the power chord for the water pump. That way I can just carry the esky into a room, plug in 2 power sockets and away it goes. Any condensation on the cpu cooler will just simply drip down onto the interior lid and perhaps if I put 1 or 2 small holes it will just drip back down into the ice / water reservoir. Since the pump is submerged its whisper quiet. The only thing to hear is the fan. It's as quiet as, well, an aquarium. Every now and then the ice shifts around as it slowly continues to melt... and as long as both hoses are submerged there is no sound of water at all. All in all I am really impressed with the results. I may perform this on a larger Esky. This one is pretty small as I could only fit 2 bags of ice (5kg ea) in there. I'd probably go for an Esky 1.5 or 2x bigger so I could fit at least 15kg of ICE in there. That should extend the useful cooling time to somewhere around the 3-5 hour mark (guesstimate since I don't even know how far the current 10kg test esky is going to go). I've taken a pic. PS: Also, since this is simply a heat exchanger setup, in winter time I'm guessing that it could be used in a similar way with hot water... although I don't think the water pump is rated for very hot liquids (probably maxes out at 65 degrees or so)... the cpu cooler and piping was designed for this sort of heat exchange anyway so I'm sure those parts are up to the task. But in any case, for summer I'll be using this.
  20. UPDATE: I ran my first tests with the unit tonight. They were promising. I also did a lot of googling and I discovered something amazing (for me at least). When water converts to Ice, it takes a lot of energy to extract all the heat ( http://en.wikipedia....halpy_of_fusion ) whlist the hydrogen bonds are formed to create the ice crystals. In fact, to heat 1L of water from 10 degrees to 30 degrees takes 84 kilojoules of energy........... but to thaw 1L of ice from 0 degrees to 20 degrees (same temperature difference but from the freezing point of water) it takes 415 kilojoules... or about 4 times as much. Another way of looking at it is, if you can cope with the expansion of water into ICE in at least some portion of the your coolant storage then you can have 4 times the effective cooling or have the same amount of cooling in a quarter of the space. Using ICE would in fact result in more cooling than water + antifreeze since antifreeze is effective until around -35 degrees celsius.... yet if you wanted to compete with the thermal efficiency of ICE you'd have to keep going way way way down to almost -90 degrees as a liquid. O_o geebus. Don't misunderstand this point. Anti-freeze at -35 will give you frost-bite, but the total amount of cooling is less than ice. The ice will take longer to melt over the entire duration going back to room temperature than the anti-freeze. I was thinking then that I could run a double-container design. The interior "bin" with an open lid contains water that gets frozen. The bin itself is not rigid... it's bendy like plastic or thin metal to cope with the deformation pressures exerted when ice forms - and the lid open of course and not filled to the top. The outer bin is slightly larger, contains water + some anti-freeze. Even though plastic is not a good conductor of heat, the transfer process need not be very fast as the cold storage is just going to be siphoned slowly over many hours. For the freezing temperature, I'm hoping that I can get everything maintained at -2 degrees which freezes the internal chamber but leaves the external chamber as a liquid, which then goes through the radiator. I'm now looking at a 100L tiny chest freezer to do the whole thing. Also..... I found this interesting entry in Wikipedia on Ice Thermal Storage: taken from http://en.wikipedia....ased_technology
  21. I have just received the cooler with piping. I've put a 50c coin in there for reference so you can gauge the size of it. It's one of the "bigger" CPU coolers out there. Should be good for a few thousand BTUs of cooling. Now I have to either wait for the pump to arrive via snail mail or pop over to the local aquarium shop and buy a bilge pump.
  22. Hi Ghosty - that is a good goal - kinda like (in my opinion) the race to get a PC in every home back in the 90s... or a TV in each house in the 70s... or a Radio in each household back in the 30s and 40s... or a Fridge/Freezer in a household back at the turn of the century. These were all lofty goals at those times but if we look at the most recent "PC in each home" goal - Not only was that goal met but we superseded it several times over. The issues we have today are that battery power is expensive. I actually looked into getting a large UPS or DIY-car-battery-hack instead of the whole chest freezer project..... so I could run the air-con via the UPS and charge the thing during off-peak, effectively shifting the air-con electricity usage to off-peak rates only --- but the UPS solutions cost upwards of $5,000 for an off-the-shelf solution and the DIY gang via marine power components and chargers will still set you back a few thousand. Doing it complete DIY getting car batteries and some inverters / battery chargers creates hydrogen gas and leaking issues since these battery packs don't have the sophisticated recharge curves the marine chargers have - and - you really need to get deep cycle AGM batteries otherwise the car batteries just won't last that long under these conditions. AGM batteries are expensive per unit - like $400 per battery. The second issue with battery power is the conversion loss. You get hit hard. For every 10 joules of energy you put in to the battery you would be lucky to get back 3 or 4 joules. Thus, using electricity as a storage medium.... and THEN running a freezer which already carries an efficiency penalty, then there is the heat/cold sink temperature dissipation leakage you factor in and you end up almost wasting your time for very little gain. If your off-peak rate was 1/10th your peak rate it may still be worth it but with a 1/5th rate I couldn't waste too much on conversion after conversion of energy. You just lose too much each time you convert. The third and final blow to the UPS idea was unfortunately that UPS systems weren't designed for running air-cons (but marine power systems were... so there was still hope with that method). It was at about this point I decided battery power wasn't the solution I'd go for in this situation at this point in time. ===================== More information on the cooling potential of a 200L freezer: A standard "TR" (Can't find what it stands for) is the energy required to freeze 1 short ton of water from "room temperature" (whatever that is... perhaps they are talking about T in textbook "STP") down to zero degrees Celsius. This works out to be 12000 BTUs/hr. That is the cooling level of an entry level air-conditioning unit that has a power draw of 3.5kW. In other words, if you ran a 12000 BTU Air-Con at full power for 24 hours, you would freeze 1 ton of water into ice. So now we have a solid metric to make some guesstimates as to what we could expect with a 200L (read: 1/5th of 1 ton) freezer. 200L - being 1/5th would mean if it were in fact frozen at 0 celsius, we'd be able to "extract" approximately 12000 BTUs of cooling from this cold-reservoir for 1/5th of 24hours.... in other words, we'd be able to run it for a shade under 5 hours straight. Firstly, the water isn't at zero, it's at around 3 degrees celsius... so we'd have to shave off say 10 or 20 minutes from the top end of that right off the bat. Also, unfortunately due to Carnots thermodynamics 2nd law, as the temperature of the water in the freezer compartment gets closer to the temperature of the room, the efficiency of the cooling cycle drops. So lets say you'd get a "strong" 12000 BTU cooling for 2.5 hours and then you'd see less and less BTUs for the remaining few hours. That may seem quite miserable but this is in comparison to a 12000 BTU air-con AT FULL BLAST. If you've run an air-con at full blast you know how incredibly cold it could make a room very quickly and thus many air-cons have inverters or at least thermostats fitted to switch the power on/off or at partial power to prevent the room from diving right down. So--- ok, it can't do 12000 BTUs for very long, granted.... but reality says you wouldn't want it to anyway. Realistically you may use 12000 BTUs for the first 20 or 30 minutes then after the room is nice and cool you'd run it at a partial load of that... perhaps 3000-6000BTUs to maintain the lower temperature. If that is a realistic assumption then we've just pulled another 2-3 hours of "strong" cooling out of our asses. Another note is that this is just 200L at 3 degrees celsius. If you want to increase the longevity and power of the system, you could opt to dive under 0 degrees for your cooling reservoir... by several methods: 1. You could run a mineral oil like sunflower oil which has a freezing temperature of -17 degrees celsius and hover at around -14. This would give you a lower cold-sink starting temperature so your heat exchanger would run more efficiently for the first few hours. You'd have extended the useful range of everything- the cooling capacity, the cooling rate and all without changing the number of liters of the system. 2. You could run a 1:1 mixture of water and anti-freeze. Anti-freeze freezes at around -37 degrees Celsius. Thus you've increased your cold-sink reservoir's efficiency yet again over oil... you'd get even more hours of useful cooling out of it. But obviously to do this day-in-day-out you may have to reconsider your heat exchanger components, especially the pump, which may not be able to operate at those extremely low temperatures. You may have to purchase equipment designed for extreme temperatures. They are definitely out there... but I haven't done any internet research on them yet. 3. You could simply buy a larger freezer. So there you go. On paper at least, given these assumptions, you could conceivably build a hypothetical 200L-driven system with anti-freeze that would run "strong" cooling for 8-10 hours straight. Or you could get a 300 or 400L freezer and have an entire full days worth of "strong" cooling on tap. By only allowing the freezer to run during off-peak times you limit your power bill yet receive the benefits of cooling at any time of the day or night. ====== This guy has done a great mod for $20 that is literally what I'm trying to do... but his goals were much more modest than what I'm planning. Still, the method looks quite sound. PS: 1 "gallon" = 4 Litres.
  23. Just found this video on YT which shows a similar idea implemented. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MabPJ7C_DhU Basic points: It works....... but as I had guessed earlier, a small radiator and small pump is going to get you a thousand or so BTUs of cooling (compared to the aircons that regularly push out 10,000 - 20,000 BTUs) so we are at 1/10th the cooling capacity of an air-con with 1 small radiator and 1 pump and with an esky full of ice, say 40L capacity we are pushing 2 hours of cooling. He also gets crazy condensation on the radiator itself due to moisture in the air reaching due level... so perhaps that extra water can make its way back into the tank in our design somehow... or out the window. BUILD TO SCALE - 200L and -20 DEGREES IS THE GOAL: Thus to make this system work for many hours and cool significantly more, you'd need to run anti-freeze and put the coolant down to -20 or so. You'd need a much larger cold-sink reservoir - not 40L but say 200L capacity. At 200L an entry level chest freezer usually starts at around 150L - 200L capacity for a "small" unit. So that being said, a decent sized cooling unit with freezer and heat exchanger would have a cooling output many times greater than this youtube unit and could last several hours longer... so we should be looking at 6-8 degrees cooling for 5 hours as a reasonable expectation of such a system. This video is obviously only attempting a proof-of-concept - and at that it is very successful.
  24. I think we are getting there. J.L.I your idea is spot on. Chest Freezer connected to wall outlet with a timer that only activates during off-peak loading. I am sourcing a 2nd hand CPU Radiator + fan and I just purchased a USB water pump from eBay for $5. To test this I'm first just going to put a bucket in the fridge and make sure there is decent cooling coming from the CPU radiator. BTU HEATING / COOLING CAPACITY OF PROTOTYPE: From a few Google searches a typical high-end computer puts out around 1400 BTUs an hour.... and by comparison an air-conditioner puts out anywhere from around 12000 BTUs for a smallish one all the way up to 20000+ BTUs for a medium sized home A/C. The CPU heat exchanger is technically only a fraction of the PCs total output - but on full load the CPU (apart from the GPU) can dominate the power draw - hence the huge cooler on it on the big PC builds. Thus a 1400 BTU heat exchanger isn't going to do the job of one air-con by itself....................... so maybe I'll have to either buy several used CPU-coolers (very very cheap on ebay and I have a few friends who have "old" CPU water cooling kits that, for their use cooling a CPU - is already surpassed in usefulness so instead of throwing it I ask for the radiator and fan bits). Or I go for a used oil cooler for a car and whack on some fans. The car fans tend to be quite loud and anything "brand new" is ridiculous in price.... but 2nd hand is dirt cheap. Probably a goal would be several thousand BTUs and we will "see how it goes". Will cool sufficiently until 10pm? Will we need more cooling than that? Is it only good for mildly warm days? For super-hot days is it worth running + the air-con to off-set the air-con's job so it doesn't run too hard? We'll the prototype is going to cost me less than $20 to build anyway. Just a USB pump from china ($5), an old CPU water cooling kit (free), some hoses from an aquarium place and a bucket of cold water to "test". If the design seems promising maybe I might decide on getting a larger freezer with a larger compressor...... that way it can draw more power during off-peak and store a larger amount of cold water. I also am probably going to try "chilled water" at 3 degrees celsius instead of going for the anti-freeze. If I go sub-zero, I may have to purchase sturdier hosing, pumps and radiators that have been built to withstand that amount of temperature day-in-day-out. There is also the issue of not just condensation on the radiator housing and hosing but ice crystals forming. Not sure if it will be problematic but we'll see if 3 degrees is sufficient. If not, according to the Carnot efficiency scale we will gain more efficient operation by driving the temperature down even further. If I use antifreeze we can dive down to easily -20 degrees celsius no problems. That effectively doubles the cooling capacity of the whole system and makes it twice as efficient according to the Carnot efficiency law (2nd law? whatever... something like that) the point is, the bigger the difference between the hottest and coldest parts of your system, the better. Just like your car, it follows the same efficiency law. The hotter the temp in the combustion chamber after the burn with the coldest air... you produce more horsepower OMG WOW! Really? So you build stuff that pushes these 2 points farther and farther apart. Colder intake air. Intercoolers after the turbo etc.... and of course the highest compression you can muster without predetonation. Anyway, back to our cooling reservoir / radiator: I'll get it done over the next few weeks and chime back in here with photos and perhaps a video.
  25. Is the world full?

    ^^^ this! as I stated a few posts earlier... we aren't stressing the planet biologically. We have a fair few toys though that may need some weaning.
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